Sunday 9 March
The Mississippi Delta is considered the birthplace of the Blues; emerging after the Civil War and born out of the spirituals and work chants of African American plantation workers.
Musicians entertained the farm workers in plantation compounds or in rudimentary bars - juke joints on their day off.
Driving to Clarksdale, we got to stop at Blue Front Cafe and Dockery Plantation. On a chilly, grey Sunday afternoon both places added sombre insights to this musical story.
There's always the obligatory stop at THE crossroads ( route 49 and 61 ) in Clarksdale. The myth that Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil in exchange for guitar playing skills is immortalized in his song.."I went down to the Crossroads".
Without tourists, Clarksdale is a ghost town on a Sunday night. Supper and guitar ballads at Hooker Grocery followed by a more bluesy set at Auberge Hostel with the mostly local crowd.
Musician and artist, Stan Street from Hambone invited us over to his bar/gallery/home for a night cap.
Some of the iconic locations like Ground Zero, Reds and the Riverside Hotel are derelict now or under renovation and I got the feeling things aren't all going well for this town.
But luckily The Delta Blues Museum was open on a Monday morning for us to visit.
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