Sunday, 2 August 2026

PERU 2026 : Roadtrip : Part 1

Friday 27 February
Since our last trip to Peru, Neil has wanted to self drive here.  Let's just say virtually NO foreign tourists do this. Flight and car delivery delays meant we tackled the chaotic Lima traffic after dark. In at the deep end but Neil is an excellent and very experienced driver. By 9pm we had met up with Coenraad at the hotel in Barranco and we're ordering a round of piscos in the nearby steakhouse.
Saturday 28 February
Unsure of traffic or road conditions, we were at breakfast at 6am and on the road by 6.45. We are driving the 1S, part of the Panamerican Highway. Our first stop is Paracas, a busy beach town 3 hours south of Lima. We joined the throngs of locals queuing for a boat trip to the Ballastas Islands. 50 tourists per boat. The trip exceeded our expectations and we loved the birdwatching. After a delicious fresh fish lunch at a beach cafe we continued our drive through the Sechura Desert ( Peruvian Coastal Desert ) to Ica, centre of the main wine growing region of Peru.
We spent the night at lovely Hacienda La Caravedo, the oldest winery in the Americas. They grow grapes to make Pisco; the famous Peruvian distilled wine. 
Well deserved Pisco Chilanos and Pisco Sours all round before dinner and an early night.
Let's just say the area is no Stellenbosch; the wineries are hidden behind kilometres of precast walls and the gravel roads are confounding, even for Google maps.

PERU 2026 : Amazon Cruise Part 2

Wednesday 25 February
Today's skiff trip is longer. There's a little rain about but nothing too unpleasant on the open boats. The highlight of the trip for me is seeing a three-toed sloth hanging in a tree above us. Almost every bird is new to us; parrots and aricaras and tannagers and kisidees to name just a few and a surprisingly large number of raptors. We loved the unusual jacanas and the limpkins but the strangest of all; a pair of hoatzins. 
And 5 different monkey  species.
The chef and kitchen staff came out on a skiff to meet us all with cocktails and lunch. 
More cocktails and canapes on the open deck at sunset. The staff band entertained us with music and dancing before dinner. It's not a party crowd so most evenings it's just Neil, Fred and I having a quiet whisky at the bar before bed.

Thursday 26th February 
The 6am birding excursion is just Neil and I.
Our later trip included a bit of canoeing. And swimming. In the Amazon!   It was glorious. I was the only swimmer until I persuaded Fred to join me.
Friday 27th February
Neil and I got our last private 6am birdwatching trip in. Last breakfast and farewells over; we left the ship at 10am. En route back to Iquitos, we got to stop at a Manatee Rescue Centre. They rehabilitate different birds and animals rescued from the exotic pet trade. 
Airport downtime and a flight back to Lima.

Sunday, 28 June 2026

PERU 2026 : Amazon Cruise Part 1

Monday 23 September
We flew from Lima to Iquitos, pop 500 000, in the heart of the Peruvian Amazon. This is the largest city in the world without road access. You can only get here by plane or boat. We took the only road; 2hrs to Nauta to board our boat. 
The Amazon Aria is luxurious; the rooms have floor to ceiling windows. 
The meals are all Peruvian cuisine of exceptional quality. The Pisco Sours delicious.
Tuesday 24 September
We take skiffs (tender boats) for all our excursions. The cruise isn't full, so Fred, Neil and I have our own boat with skipper, naturalist and deck hand.This is wonderful because the guides are happy to focus on the birding for us. And the birding is fantastic. The are 680 species in this area of the Amazon. It's the height of the rainy season so 95% of the Reserva Nacional Pacaya Samiria is underwater. 
Our first sunrise excursion is 6 to 7am. After breakfast we head out again. Apart from birds we look for different monkey species in the channels and creeks off the main river. In the afternoon we visit a very isolated village. The river is very quiet with only a couple of ferries or barges a day going by. 
There is some time every day to relax in your room or in the lounge deck with never-ending vistas passing by.