Saturday, 9 March 2024

SOUTH AMERICA 2024 : LA PAZ, BOLIVIA

Wednesday 31 January
What better way to start a day in La Paz than riding the cable car public transport. Literally, an amazing overview of the city. 
La Paz is a cramped, congested, haphazard and very steep city. Despite the Andes mountains all around, it's not attractive at ground level.
Up at KilliKilli viewpoint we watched a music group making a video.
Le Paz is the government and military capital of Bolivia. Protests, demonstrations and roadblocks are almost daily occurrences here. Hence, the security presence around Plaza Murillo.
The Witches Market has shops selling everything you need to make a "table offering" to Mother Earth. These days there are more shops selling souvenirs for tourists though. 
Much more authentic was our trip to the Alasita Market. At Carnival time people buy minitures of anything they want or need - from cars and houses to groceries or money or building materials. They use these to make offerings and ask to be blessed in the coming year. 
Clusters of stalls, all selling the same things form markets dotted all over the city. I took pictures at the gardening market. While this is not as efficient as a big garden centre might be, it does create lots of jobs for independent traders. Street stalls and corner shops are far more common than supermarkets or malls.
We tried a local speciality for lunch - Charquekan - shredded dried meat over corn with potato,egg and cheese.
We took a look at the Valley of the Moon; natural sandstone formations. Only a small, protected piece of this valley remains - the rest having been destroyed and built over.
There is a petrol shortage in Bolivia so most city garages have run out of fuel. Queues of cars, sometimes up to a kilometre long wait for hours to fill up, causing traffic jams.
Our hotel, The Met is in an upmarket area called San Miguel. It's safe to walk around here at night with lots of bars, restaurants and shops. 
For drinks and an early supper, of all the choices we had, we went to Moe's - A Simpson's themed bar and burger joint filled with young people.

SOUTH AMERICA 2024: PERU TO BOLIVIA

Tuesday 30 January
Breakfast at 5.45 and on the road by 6.15am. It's a 1.5hr drive to the Bolivian border. Our first land border ever in South America. 3 minutes. So easy. Our Peru guide walked with us to the border to meet with our Bolivia guide. Into our minivan and off we go. 
Copacabana is a town on Lake Titicaca. Pilgrims from all over Bolivia and Peru come to " Santaurio Nacional de la Virgen de Copacabana en Bolivia" to ask the virgin to bless them with things they want or need. Even new cars are brought to be blessed by the priest outside the church. Syncretism between Catholicism and traditional Inca and other tribal beliefs continues throughout Bolivia.
We did a boat trip to Sun Island on the Bolivian side of the lake. This island was very sacred to the Incas.
Our journey to La Paz involved a car ferry and lots of traffic through the huge city of El Alto to the south of La Paz.
La Paz, 3600m above sea level, is a crazy city squeezed into steep vallies surrounded on all sides by the Andes mountains and criss-crossed by public transport cable cars. Tomorrow we explore.

SOUTH AMERICA 2024 : Lake Titicaca, Peru

Monday 29 January
Today we did a full day tour of Lake Titicaca visiting the floating islands of Uros and Taquile Island.
I had requested a private tour so we got a whole 30 seater boat to ourselves! 
The Lake is the highest great lake in the world at 3800m above sea level and the water is 9°C!  We were blessed with sunny weather and we enjoyed a bit of birdwatching from our boat.  I'm not a big fan of cultural tourism; people dressing up in traditional dress, performing music and demonstrating outdated customs to groups of tourists. However, it seems that tourism is the only income for these communities so we embraced the process, bought the crafts and enjoyed our day!
Uros is a collection of islands made entirely of reeds. 
Taquile Island is 2 hours by boat from Puno.
The 2000 pre-inca Quechua inhabitants are subsistence farmers with strong traditions in weaving.
We ate a tasty lunch of grilled trout at a family home with a view of the lake.
Back in our hotel for happy hour pisco sours served by barman Jesus. I know it's a common name here but if not a carpenter, why not a barman?