Friday, 2 February 2024

SOUTH AMERICA 2024 : SACRED VALLEY

Friday 26 January
We woke up to the news that the riots up at Machu Picchu had escalated and that Perurail had suspended all trains to Aguas Calientes. Our guide was hopeful that by afternoon things would be back to normal so we continued our tour of the Sacred Valley as planned. The Andes are amazing mountains.The sacred valley is beautiful even if the towns are very shabby.  We visited the Inca settlement of Pisac.
We drove through Lamay; this town specialises cuy (guinea pig) restaurants. Maras Salt Mine has been operating since Inca times.The Inca ruins at Ollantaytambo are amazing. How they managed to transport such huge rocks across the valley and up the mountain is incredible. 
We crossed the picket line to enter the deserted station - did you see us on the news?- for our lunch at El Alberge restaurant on the platform. No train service today so we checked into Hotel Pakaritampu in case the trains would run in the morning but by 6pm we heard no trains would run on Saturday.
So we wouldn't see Machu Picchu. We didn't feel that disappointed. We aren't tick box tourists. We're having a good time, meeting great people, eating good food, learning so much. And we can come again! Neil had already decided he'd like to come back to Peru on a self-drive trip including the south, the Amazon and the wine/pisco region. You'd better put your hands up quickly if you'd like to join us...
The culinary adventure continues...Chicha Morada is a red cooldrink made from black corn. Inca Cola is as popular as Coca Cola here.Quinoa - yellow, red or black-  is delicious. Chicha is a fresh, fermented beer made from giant yellow corn.I liked the version flavoured with strawberry. We tried Alpaca Skewers- tender meat something like veal.

SOUTH AMERICA 2024 : CUSCO AND AROUND

Thursday 25 January
A day in Cusco and around..
Although it's pretty touristy, we loved Cusco.
Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire, ruled by 14 kings from 1432 to 1533 when the Spanish began conquering the Inca states all through the Andes. 
Cusco has many palaces and temples centered around Plaza de Armas.
The Spanish built their churches using the Inca Temples they found in Cusco. Quoricancha ( Sun Temple ) is incorporated into Covento San Domingo.
Mercado San Pedro is the local market in the San Blas neighbourhood.
There are Inca strongholds all around Cusco; used for protection of the capital as well as country palaces, agricultural terraces, temples and storehouses. We visited a few. 
Puka Phukara
Saksayhuaman
Quenqo
Tambomachay
The are more than 300 varieties of corn in Peru and it's an important ingredient in their cuisine and as snacks. Neil tried black whisky, made of Andean black corn.

SOUTH AMERICA 2024 : LIMA TO CUSCO

Wednesday 24 January
Peru schools are on Summer holidays from late December to early March so Lima's domestic terminal was packed with local holiday makers. Peru is the first country I've visited where I am of above average height- compared to both the men and women!
Pulling our hand luggage through the Cusco airport we found ourselves a little short of breathe. We are 3400m above sea level here. 
By the time we have checked into our hotel, Antigua Casona San Blas in historic old Cusco, I can really feel the altitude and Neil is 100% fine!
After a nap I can manage a stroll down to Plaza de Almas. A few demonstrators and riot police around the square but everything is very quiet. The protests are against the recent centralizing of ticketing at Machu Pichu. We tried another Peruvian sandwich, a triple.. tomato, avocado and egg mayonaise.
Historic Monesterio Belmond Hotel has a lovely bar with excellent maracuja (passion fruit) pisco sour but I'm sticking to sparkling water. We loved the local corn snacks and potato chips. Back at our hotel its more pisco for Neil and fruit juice for me.. and more snacks.. and an early night..