Morocco 2023: Part 2 : Marrakesh

Saturday 18 February 2023

Casablanca to Marrakesh.

We picked up the car rental and hit the road to Marrakesh.

We had coffee at one of the highway services' cafes.

We had swopped timeshare points  for a week at Inclub Palmaraie a few kilometres outside the city. We stocked up on water, food and some wine at a local Carrefour supermarket before checking in.

In the early evening we took a taxi to the Jeema El Fna Square. This teeming night market in the centre of Marrakesh is most busy on a Saturday night and locals out-numbered tourists by a long way. On the outskirts of the square there are street performers, musicians, fortune tellers and even snake handlers.

In the centre are glorious looking food stalls and outdoor restaurants serving all manner of delicacies to locals and tourists alike. 

We visited the terrace at Le Grand Balcon du Cafe Glacier, a most unpleasant tourist trap but we did get a few good photos of sunset over the Square.

For dinner we found the slightly more authentic Cafe Kessabine for a typical dinner. 

The lemon, ginger and mint mocktails were good but dinner just ain't dinner without a glass of wine to wash it all down.

Sunday 19th February 2023 

Marrakesh

It was a slow Sunday start and we got the resort taxi into central Marrakesh. Wandering without an agenda is amazing, with so much to see every step of the way. Walking a specific route is more frustrating because you WILL get lost, even with Google maps. And then there will always be a friendly local offering help but invariably via a family shop or latching on to you as your guide. 

We found Place des Ferblantiers and from there we entered El Mellah, the old Jewish Quarter, with its narrow lanes, crumbling buildings and renovated riads behind old, wooden doors.

The Slat Al Azama synagogue, built in 1492, is a calm retreat from the bustle of Marrakesh.

At the Bahia Palace we encountered every tourist in Marrakesh, seemingly all there at the same time as us. 

We enjoyed afternoon drinks at La Marrakchi, atmospheric and one of the few places in Marrakesh that serves alcohol.  

We had a lovely dinner at Cafe Babouche. The Menu du Soir is great value and sitting outside on street level is great for people-watching. Another stroll through Jamaa El Fna Square to meet the taxi and then it was home for an early night.

Morocco 2023 : Part 1 : Casablanca

 

We flew from Johanesburg on Air Egypt via Cairo.

Thursday 16th February 2023 : Casablanca

We don't like to travel like tourists so I booked an apartment in Casablanca instead of a hotel, centrally located for walking everywhere. 

Let's just say that the crumbling early 20th century Art Deco buildings have charm. Our neighbourhood is full of local restaurants, cafes and boulangeries. And locals. Only locals. 

We wandered the streets for the afternoon. We enjoyed a coffee stop. I was the only woman in the cafe. In Morocco, meeting at cafes is a male persuit. Women socialise together at home. 

We found ourselves in the Old Medina, a fascinating tangle of narrow streets and stalls.

Other than at hotels, there aren't many bars serving alcohol but Les Archers is on the ground floor of our apartment.

We had our first taste of Moroccan wine. We couldn't sit on the terrace and drink alcohol, so endured loud local music and the smokers inside. Bar snacks, Moroccan style, were complimentary. 

Rouge en Blanc snack bar is also downstairs. We tried meat tagine and rotisserie chicken for dinner. Then up to bed for an early night.

Friday 17 February 2023

Casablanca

Stephen and Vivienne arrived today. Our brunch spot is a Cafe opposite the apartment. Moroccan coffee is good. Cafe Latte is called Nous-Nous. 

Moroccans also drink a lot of mint tea and you see tea vendors all over the city. 

We caught a taxi to Hassan II mosque; the biggest in Morocco.

It's a modern building overlooking the sea. 

The movie Casablanca was wholly shot on set in Hollywood but that didn't stop them recreating a "Rick's Cafe" in downtown Casablanca.Despite being a tourist trap, we enjoyed a round of cocktails, watching the movie showing on a loop in the bar while "As time goes by " played in the background.

We took Stephen and Vivienne through the old medina which was much quieter, being a Friday afternoon. 

And we returned to Rouge en Blanc so that Stephen could try the rotisserie chicken.  

They needed to sleep off their jet lag so we went back to Les Archers for another bottle of red wine and more bar snacks. It's a lot more vibey around here on a Friday night.