Wednesday, 5 August 2026

PERU 2026 : Roadtrip Part 2

Sunday 1 March
After breakfast we did a great distillery tour at Caravedo. 
We were lucky to see a few Pre Inca Native American mummies that were excavated on the property. Buried in baskets with their knees tucked up, they are well preserved due to the dry desert conditions. These Paracas mummies ( 800BC to 100AD ) predate the Nazca Mummies. ( 100BC to 800 AD )
Being in the heart of the Peruvian wine region, we decided to go for lunch at Tacama Winery to taste their wines. 
On the road through the desert again and we were lucky to stop at a number of viewing platforms to see the Nazca Lines. All through the Nazca desert you can find geoglyphs; giant designs dug into the earth by the earlier Paracas and later Nazca tribes/cultures.
Our evening out and about in Nazca included pisco sours at a local bar and dinner at hugely popular Polleria Rico Pollo. Huge portions too!
Monday 2 March
Away at 6.45am again for the long journey ( 500km/ 10 hours ) along the Panamerican Highway through the Peruvian Coastal Dessert.The single lane highway runs for hundreds of kilometres alongside the coast. The other- worldly desert landscape meets the ocean; desolate and windy with no vegetation at all. There are a few rivers, fast flowing at this time of year with verdant vallies and some agriculture like olives, rice and onions and a couple of fishing villages. The road is quite busy; mostly trucks with a few busses and local cars. The views are amazing but the amount of trash on the roads is terrible.There are very few towns and no roadside fuel stops. At Camana we do find fuel, cool drinks and snacks. We stop off at the ugly and very shabby beach resort to stretch our legs. The last 2 hours down to Mollendo, the road is quieter. This mishmash beach resort only has one decent hotel and we have a nice enough evening in the local restaurants and bars. We are the only non-local tourists.

Sunday, 2 August 2026

PERU 2026 : Roadtrip : Part 1

Friday 27 February
Since our last trip to Peru, Neil has wanted to self drive here.  Let's just say virtually NO foreign tourists do this. Flight and car delivery delays meant we tackled the chaotic Lima traffic after dark. In at the deep end but Neil is an excellent and very experienced driver. By 9pm we had met up with Coenraad at the hotel in Barranco and we're ordering a round of piscos in the nearby steakhouse.
Saturday 28 February
Unsure of traffic or road conditions, we were at breakfast at 6am and on the road by 6.45. We are driving the 1S, part of the Panamerican Highway. Our first stop is Paracas, a busy beach town 3 hours south of Lima. We joined the throngs of locals queuing for a boat trip to the Ballastas Islands. 50 tourists per boat. The trip exceeded our expectations and we loved the birdwatching. After a delicious fresh fish lunch at a beach cafe we continued our drive through the Sechura Desert ( Peruvian Coastal Desert ) to Ica, centre of the main wine growing region of Peru.
We spent the night at lovely Hacienda La Caravedo, the oldest winery in the Americas. They grow grapes to make Pisco; the famous Peruvian distilled wine. 
Well deserved Pisco Chilanos and Pisco Sours all round before dinner and an early night.
Let's just say the area is no Stellenbosch; the wineries are hidden behind kilometres of precast walls and the gravel roads are confounding, even for Google maps.

PERU 2026 : Amazon Cruise Part 2

Wednesday 25 February
Today's skiff trip is longer. There's a little rain about but nothing too unpleasant on the open boats. The highlight of the trip for me is seeing a three-toed sloth hanging in a tree above us. Almost every bird is new to us; parrots and aricaras and tannagers and kisidees to name just a few and a surprisingly large number of raptors. We loved the unusual jacanas and the limpkins but the strangest of all; a pair of hoatzins. 
And 5 different monkey  species.
The chef and kitchen staff came out on a skiff to meet us all with cocktails and lunch. 
More cocktails and canapes on the open deck at sunset. The staff band entertained us with music and dancing before dinner. It's not a party crowd so most evenings it's just Neil, Fred and I having a quiet whisky at the bar before bed.

Thursday 26th February 
The 6am birding excursion is just Neil and I.
Our later trip included a bit of canoeing. And swimming. In the Amazon!   It was glorious. I was the only swimmer until I persuaded Fred to join me.
Friday 27th February
Neil and I got our last private 6am birdwatching trip in. Last breakfast and farewells over; we left the ship at 10am. En route back to Iquitos, we got to stop at a Manatee Rescue Centre. They rehabilitate different birds and animals rescued from the exotic pet trade. 
Airport downtime and a flight back to Lima.