TANZANIA 2025 : SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK

Friday 25th to Sunday 27th July

We spent 3 nights in the central part of Serengeti National Park, in the Seronera area. I don't know how I'm going to fit everything into one blogpost.

It is a stunning place.

The game is so abundant.

We've never had so many predator sightings; three to four lion encounters every day plus multiple cheetah, leopard and hyena sightings.

Let's just get the only downside out upfront...lots of other vehicles!

Luckily Yuda, our guide worked us out quickly and took us to the East of Serengeti on Saturday. We drove a long way but we were literally the only vehicle out there. The kopje landscape is beautiful.

We had two good cheetah sightings.

And then we spotted a lioness with four cubs. Soon she was joined by two more lioness who called their cubs from their hiding place and seven more cubs trotted out.  We followed the lionesses as they led their cubs to the kill to feed!

Later we also saw ostrich mating.

On Sunday we stayed in the Seronera area, much busier, but we followed a leopard for a kilometer or more as it appeared and reappeared along the riverbed. Lots more lion and cheetah too.

Most interesting was a baboon killing a dikdik. Baboons do occasionally hunt and the alpha male will kill to show dominance. Once he has eaten, he will allow the other big males to partake.

On Monday we explored the Moro area, also further afield and much less busy. We were the only vehicle for miles and we still saw plenty.

TANZANIA 2025 : JOURNEY TO SERENGETI

Friday 25 July

We headed through the town of Karatu and up to the Ngorogoro NP.

The road winds up to the rim of the Ngorogoro Crater, which is 2300m above sea level.

It's cooler and very forested at higher altitudes.

After the view site we stopped for our picnic. Our lodge had packed us boxed lunches which we soon learned is how it's done on safari all over Tanzania.

Then began the descent into the Ngorogoro Conservancy, the Maasai territory, on the worst dirt roads. Shake, rattle and hope you don't roll.

And it's busy. Hundreds of safari vehicles (all Landcruisers),delivery trucks and local taxis (all old Landrovers; often broken down!)

The Maasai are no longer nomadic but they do still live traditionally,herding their cattle and sheep amongst the zebra, gazelle and wildebeest. Earlier we had stopped at a Maasai village for the "tourist experience" so it was good to see it wasn't all just for show.

Just before the border gate between Ngorogoro NP and Serengeti NP we came across a pride of lion.

The Maasai are compensated for any livestock that falls prey and conservation practices benefit both locals and wildlife.

Once inside the Serengeti the road improved a bit but as we travelled from South to Central Serengeti the game viewing was so fabulous we forgot all about the roads.

We were lucky to see a Cerval too.

We are stayed 3 nights at another TBC camp; a very similar set up to the one in Tarangire but much busier with about 20 guest tents. They do have wifi in the dining room but it's not great so we went more or less off line for a few days.

TANZANIA 2025 : TARANGIRE NATIONAL PARK

Thursday 24 July

We took an early flight from Zanzibar to Arusha and then a second flight in a tiny plane (12 seater) to Tarangire NP.

We don't usually like to do these little flips but the journey was smooth enough and uneventful.

We were met at Koro Airstrip by Yuda, our guide from BasecampTanzania.

What a beautiful park, I'm really glad we included it in our itinerary.

We saw plenty of game, loads of elephants and we got a chance to get to grips with some common East African birds.

All safari vehicles across Tanzania are Toyota Landcruisers modified with 3 rows of seats and a roof that raises up for game viewing but can be closed when you drive on the open road. 

TBC ( Tanzania Bush Camps ) have numerous semi-permanent tented camps. The one in Tarangire moved to a new site and only recently opened. What a gorgeous camp. We stayed in a large safari tent with a lounge, bedroom and bathroom en-suite.

Main dining and lounge tents are in the middle of a semi circle of guest  tents.

You have to be escorted to and from the rooms after dark. The three course dinner is buffet style. We heard lions, hyenas and jackals calling all night and from all directions around camp. After breakfast we headed out on our journey up to Serengeti and we found the lions in a riverbed not far from camp.