SOUTH AMERICA 2024 :GALAPAGOS DAY 2

Monday 5 February

Our excursion this morning was to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. We were surprised how lush and tropical it was.

And how built up. The population of the Galapagos  is 35 000. Puerto Ayora has loads of tourist restaurants,shops and guest houses.

Charles Darwin Research Station has a breeding program for giant tortoises.

They are kept in captivity until they are 10 years old and then released back into the wild.

As everywhere, human dessimation of natural species and habitats brought species to extinction or virtual extinction in the Galapagos. Conservation efforts since the second half of the 20th century have been mixed. Tourism seems well managed.

We watched juvenile brown pelicans hunting in the harbour.

In the afternoon I went snorkelling with our group. Lots of fish species, rays and dozens of white-tipped reef sharks. And the water is really warm. 28°C.

We couldn't land the zodiacs on the beach this afternoon because the waves were too big so we did some birds watching from the water.

Our routine is sunset drinks on the boat followed by dinner and an early night.

SOUTH AMERICA 2024 : GALAPAGOS ISLANDS, ECUADOR

Sunday 4 February

Yet another early pick up - 5.30am and at the airport by 6.00am. We landed on Baltra in the Galapagos.

The islands are very dry and barren looking with average rainfall at just 100 mm per year.

Seemless transfers by bus and zodiac to our boat ; Coral 1.

We saw a huge Tiger Shark in the bay. 

After settling into our cabin we endured the long introductory talk in both Spanish and English.

After lunch we did a zodiac transfer to Seymour North Island.

There are thousands of mating frigate birds and lots of nesting chicks. Two species occur here; the Giant Frigate bird and the Spectacular Frigate bird. The bright red pouch on the male is to attract a mate.

Because there are no natural predators here, the animals and birds don't get out of the way of humans. You are just so close. We also saw Blue Footed Boobies and various seagulls, pelicans, petrels and plovers.

And many land iguanas, seals and crabs.

The volcanic rocks are difficult to walk over but we loved the bird watching, even in the warm drizzle. 

Neil had already befriended Santiago the barman. Meals are good, drinks are expensive, cabin is comfy.

SOUTH AMERICA 2024 : QUITO, ECUADOR

Thursday 1 February

3.45am pick up! At least there's no traffic at this time of the morning. A flight from La Paz to Lima, a 2 hour layover and another flight to Quito, Ecuador.

We stayed at Casona de La Ronda, a boutique hotel in an historic building.

Our room had the biggest bed we have ever seen! 

We took a walk to Plaza Grande in search of a sim card. Police and security everywhere. 

We stopped for a pisco sour at the Grand Plaza Hotel and ended up trying some local snacks - tamales, humitas and bolon and Ecuadorian wine too.

They serve their sorbet with the lights off, an eerie bell tolling and the waiter dressed in a purple "clan" outfit. We still have no idea why! But we ordered one anyway. 

The centre of town is very quiet after dark. 

Almost every bar and restaurant is empty.

At Canndyl de la Ronda they only had 2 other guests. The salsa band was playing in an empty room. 

We tried a tray of local shots. Awful!

So we headed off to bed.. no alarm clock set for a change.. just as it should be.

Friday 2nd February

Quito is 3600m above sea level but it seems I have finally acclimatised. It's on the equator but is surprisingly cool due to the altitude. The currency of Ecuador is the USD. This makes things quite a bit more expensive than South Africa. Recent political unrest has led to a big drop in tourism.

Today we slept in; the first time since the start of this trip. It's rainy anyway. 

We ubered to Plaza Foch, the student/ backpacker party area in La Floresta.

We had lunch at the Colombian coffee chain Juan Valdez.We tried fast food empanadas.

We sat at an upstairs bar with a view over the square to watch 6 nations rugby. The only thing going for "Jack and Beer" is that they put ESPN 3 on for us; the only guests. 

The clubs (discotekas) started before 4pm on a Friday afternoon and thousands of young people flocked in.

After the rugby, we ubered in the rain, to a more upmarket Bar Zinc. Again the place was so empty for a Friday night. 

Saturday 3 February

We walked all over the historic old centre of Quito today. Busier being a Saturday.

Lots of people watching. Lots of churches.

And lots of hills. Neil had fun buying me a hat.

In the evening we had cocktails on the rooftop terrace of Hotel Casa Gangotena.

Then dinner and music at Lena Quitena on La Ronda; much more local and much more fun!